So, if you follow me on Instagram, you’ll know that I recently embarked on an epic road trip across Vietnam, and of all the beautiful places I passed through, this is the one I just can’t shut up about.
Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng is a national park in the Quảng Bình province of Vietnam, about a 10 hour bus ride away from the capital. From Ho Chi Minh, you can either fly there in under 4 hours, or spend just over a full day on the train to Dong Hoi. So, it’s definitely not as accessible as the popular weekend getaways of Mui Ne and Ho Tram, but if you ask me, it’s totally worth the journey.
Once you arrive in Phong Nha, you can explore the park and it’s surrounding areas for as little as 70k a day by renting a motorbike. If you drive in from the south, quiet windy roads hug the mountain sides taking you up and down past waterfalls and valleys until you reach the little town of hostels and restaurants. In this area, you’re likely to see monkeys, birds, and butterflies, but the park itself is also said to be home to tigers, black bears and elephants. But beyond the wildlife, Phong Nha is most famous for its vast networks of caves and underground rivers, some of which are the largest in the world.
To reach the big boys, you need to be accompanied by professional guides and safety advisers, which are not cheap. Hang Sơn Đoòng, also known as the Mountain River Cave, is actually the largest cave in the world, and at the heart of the park, it takes a 3 day, 2 night expedition to get there. It’s said that the cave is so big, you could fit a 40 storey skyscraper inside, or even fly a 747 through it with ease.
If you’re not big into trekking, there are still loads of other caves to see. We were recommended the Dark Cave by a local, and it certainly didn’t disappoint. About a 15 minute drive from the main area followed by a zip line (or canoe) to the cave, it’s one of the easiest caves to get to.
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Once you’re inside the cave, it’s headlamps on, and you’re guided 1km into the 6km deep cave, until you eventually reach a dark mud pool, where you may or may not decide to have a mud fight with your friends. After that, wash off, and either swim or canoe back towards the entrance, where there’s a range of other smaller zip line activities and swings to play around with to your heart’s content.
Even more accessible still, the Phong Nha Cave can be explored entirely by boat, departing directly from the main town area. For 320k, you can have a whole boat to yourself, or join forces with other tourists for an even cheaper ride. After a scenic boat trip down the river surrounded by the limestone mountains, when you reach the cave, the captain will turn the engine off, and row you through entirely by hand, so you can peacefully admire the impressive cave. Should you choose to do so, you can even walk through a section of the cave, and meet your boat on the other side.
But there is still so much more to this fantastic destination than just the caves alone, you’re highly unlikely to run out of things to do. One of those activities that just cannot be missed is The Duck Stop. I won’t tell you too much about what to expect, just be ready to go with the flow, and I guarantee you’ll get a good laugh out of it. For 100k, you get the full “duck experience” and a delicious bánh xèo (savoury pancake) at the end, and for an extra 50k, you can even get your photo taken riding a water buffalo affectionately named Donald Trump.
Another reason why you should visit Phong Nha is that the food is as fresh and delicious as it gets. Just up the road from The Duck Stop, The Pub With Cold Beer is a restaurant and bar famous for delicious killed-to-order chicken. In fact, here, they even ask you if you’d like to catch and kill the chicken yourself, and of course my friends said yes. It’s not for the faint of heart, but it’s definitely a memorable experience.
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Another place I’d highly recommend is Len Con Peak, a restaurant run by a lovely local family near the town area, where we had a superb fresh grilled fish served with rice paper and herbs with a view overlooking some rice fields.
If you’re looking for a place to stay in Phong Nha, please look no further than Hahaland Hostel. Situated in the main town area along the river, not only is it a great place to explore from, but you can also watch the sunset over the limestone mountains from their riverside deck, which also hosts a range of water activities such as a zipline, swing and slide.
As if that wasn’t enough to persuade you, private rooms go for as little as 120k per night, and you can also rent motorbikes and book tours from reception at very little cost. It’s run by two of the kindest people I met throughout the journey, and they also serve THE tastiest french fries I’ve ever had.
There you have it, that’s my guide to my favourite holiday destination in Vietnam. Please do check it out, I’m sure I’ll be back very soon.
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