When someone tells you they went somewhere to eat two nights in a row, you know it has to be good. Well, this was one of those occasions, when just last weekend, I stumbled upon what truly has to be the ultimate epicurean pit stop in the Vietnamese Central Highlands.
As I wove through the windy mountain roads en route to Dalat, my appetite for a delectable dining experience in the highland city grew. I could only think of one place, Gemination. Despite having never had the pleasure of dining here before, I was very familiar with this Dalat gem’s enticing menu, having written a glowing article for the discerning readers of Epicure magazine, describing their signature cocktails and fusion fare.
Nestled in the hilly streets of Dalat’s city centre, as soon as you step inside, you will find a quiet shelter from the urban noise. Dark wooden panelled walls adorn the interior, as if they belonged in a modern luxury woodland cabin. Drawing you ever closer towards the impressive bar, the seductively dim lighting sets the tone for an evening of intimate conversation and exquisite libations.
Daring to at once surrender my tastebuds to the weird and wonderful minds behind the Vietnamese-forward concoctions from the bar, I ordered the Atiso Sour without hesitation, as it was a cocktail I had long been wanting to try. Upon closer inspection of the menu, I realised this was quite a bold choice indeed, as it contains several out-there flavours I would pause before putting in a cocktail. Dill, yellow mustard, yoghurt, could it work?
To my delight, it definitely does. With the refreshing and uplifting taste of a summer cocktail, the Atiso Sour still manages to instil the childlike wonder of melted vanilla ice cream. Smooth, creamy, yet bright and herbaceous, I kid you not when I tell you this is absolutely my new favourite cocktail.
The drink under the spotlight contains gin-infused pandan, artichoke puree, rhubarb syrup, saffron tincture, rhubarb bitters, yoghurt, yellow mustard, egg white, dill and lemon juice. Are they mad? Perhaps, all the best people are, and Gemination’s bartenders truly are the best.
Magic happens in the fine tuning of last minute flavour adjustments, ensuring quality is not just controlled, but perfected in every glass before it reaches your lips. To these mixology magicians, I give my complete trust.
Before I could finish my cocktail, the first small plate of the night swiftly made its way out of the kitchen. Gemination presents: Crispy Rice with Crab Meat, cubes of golden fried rice topped with the delicate meat of fresh crab, sprinkled with moreish green chilli salt and dollops of avocado sauce. Simply delicious.
Not a moment too soon, the next plate arrived. A rich and generous slice of Chicken Liver Pate accompanied by crisp slices of garlic bread, soothing the ferocious appetite built up by the first plate. Even though I am not a fan of berries, the fruity layer of berry gel is very pleasing to the balance of flavours indeed.
With more room in my belly still, my eyes landed on the elegantly presented Scallop Ceviche, a miniature garden wreath from the sea, decorated by micro herbs, wakame seaweed and red chillies, enhancing the already amazing fresh raw scallops laying in a tataki-style soy sauce. Perhaps my favourite bite thus far, I did not expect to be even more impressed by the next scallop dish to come.
Allow me to introduce the star dish, Hokkaido Japanese Scallops, two ways. A ceramic cup with a wooden lid functions as the vehicle for a mind-blowing scallop and mango-filled tart shell, too good to share even though very much large enough. Beneath, you are beckoned to dig your spoon into a warm and bright green pea puree, accompanied by, you guessed it, more succulent Japanese scallops.
Before I tell you about our exceptional dessert, there is one dish I cannot wait another second to mention: the Sentinel Crab Pasta. This jaw-dropping-ly rich pasta escaped my hungry gaze the first night, so I’m glad we came back to savour it on the second. I admit I had to tell the owner there was a major problem with the dish, they’re severely undercharging their customers for it. Its sheer glory is all in the sauce, with the Sentinel crab stock dancing on your palate, generously lathering the pasta in flavours so phenomenal, you wouldn’t care if it were to stain your shirt as you slurped it up.
Another dish we were happy to tuck into on the second night was the Duck and Turnip Cake in a berry reduction and herb oil. Strikingly presented, one must take a photo. Perfectly cooked duck is surely a real treat, but the crispy golden turnip cake touched a special place in my heart reserved for the enjoyment of classic dim sum. It made me so happy, I even laughed a little with my mouth full of food.
On both nights, we did not order dessert, but we were graciously presented with some anyway to add a sweet finish to our decadent epicurean flight. So nice we had it twice, Gemination’s play on a Creme Brulee has the addictive taste of salted caramel and coffee, fluffy, light and wonderful altogether.
When in Dalat, you cannot miss this true gem. As I left for the last time, I imagined myself coming back again and again, for a meal I will always associate with Dalat as a shining example of the finest fresh produce, finessed by the talent and skill of an ambitious chef and his team.
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